Even though some of this thread is a bit dated time wise, would have to agree that the IC7 performance may be a bit exaggerated and have found other paste to be easier to work with to get more consistent results. The only times I ever felt it to be worth wile to lapp any heatsink was when it visually appeared to be a bit less than scratch free
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The above is the CM TPC 812 from beta testing and it is an excellent cooler, Usually when I see a base that looks like this I would apply a 'tin' referencing the tinning method in soldering. and wipe away the excess to leave a sheen on the surface .Would have to agree with some of the other comments like @Neil & don't feel like I am installing a cooler with out having coffee filter around. just not the same,
and like @eunioa mention about using a 3 dot and credit card swipe, and others may use a plastic wrap finger swipe it seems all OK to use a method and TIM that produces the most consistent results for them,Actually needed to apply a bit more TIM on the CM TPC 812 that accustomed to when putting it to the test on an FX 8150.
Just wanted to add that Phanteks use a a diamond particle TIM included in there coolers and it may take a bit of curing time. The tube I had from Phatek appears to be quite similar to the IC Diamond but not quite as thick. Still generally prefer to use MX2 or 4 and the Nocuta NH since they are easier to apply more consistently and do not need time to cure.Can easily break those in by cycling some heavy LinPack in 20 minute sessions with 10 minute cool down times in about 3 on- off cycles.