Quote:Originally posted by Ramman What you're looking for is an axial leaded fuse. Bussmann makes those (BK/ABC-V-25) Try here: www.dee-inc.com What I would do, and have done in the past, is to solder a fuse holder (automotive twist style is fine) in place and use a standard 3AG fuse. These are about $0.75 for a pack of 5 in the 25A size. Go to Radio Shack and pick up a desoldering tool and clear out the holes in the PCB where the fuse was. Solder in the fuse holder, install the fuse and you're back in business. This way you can easily change out the fuse if it ever blows again.The manufacturers use those axial fuses so most people have to send the product back to get it fixed. That way a $3 fix (includes fuse holder and fuse) now costs about $50 or more .
Quote:Originally posted by CompHobbyist Yes, it is probably 2.5A. Most fuses are rated at 250V so that you can use them in either 240/220V equipment or 120/110V equipment. The reason you can't get the endcaps off is because they are spot-welded onto the fuse. You can get a fuse like that at www.digikey.com. If you want to make it easier next time, get PN# 270-739 at radio shack ($1.49 for 2 chassis mount holders), plus PN# 270-1008 ($1.59 for 4 250V/2.5A 1/4" x 1 1/4" fuses) and some bell wire.The method I always use to remove parts that are bad anyways is to get a nail clipper, clip the leads off flush with the board on both sides, add a little new solder or electronics flux, then use a can of compressed air and a soldering iron to clean out the holes. I personally prefer the compressed air method to the solder-sucker method, as it seems to clean the hole out better. I melt the solder from the component side (very important as it's hard to clean splatters of solder off the component side of a board), then quickly move the soldering iron away, put the nozzle above the joint and about 1/8" away, then blast the solder and component lead fragment through the hole onto a sheet of paper or cardboard. Then I use the soldering iron and/or a hobby knife to clean up the splatters on the solder side of the board, and solder in the new component.BTW, when in doubt get the smaller current rating fuse, as that way it'll just burn out when you turn the equipment on instead of allowing a possible overload and fire.